Woodworking InformationHow to Strip Wood Furniture

Now I'm about to demonstrate how to strip
a finish off of a piece of furniture. It's a bit echoey in here, but that's because we're
in the spray room, which sucks all the air towards this filter, keeping all the dust,
the particles of paint thinner and paint, any kind of floating materials that can be
in the air, going in one direction to keep the dust off the piece and to keep it safe
in the room, to breathe. Other precautions are, a respirator, gloves, and safety glasses.
The things we'll be using to do this process are paint thinner, paint remover, a wire brush,
steel wool, sandpaper, and some rags. This piece of furniture has flaking finish.

In
places it's completely worn out. In other places you have dirty build-up. We're going
to remove all that. The first thing we'll attack is the flaky paint, 'cause that's the
loosest, and the easiest thing to remove.

We'll do that using a wire brush, being careful
not to mar up the wood. When you're using a wire brush of any sort on anything flaky,
it's best to wear safety glasses and a respirator. Once you've used your wire brush to remove
any loose paint, then it's time to go to the next step. What we'll go to next is these
areas where the stain is still fairly well-attached, but it's worn away in the surrounding area.
This will be the next easiest thing to remove.

After you're done wire brushing the chair,
use some compressed air to blow any dust off of the chair. The next step is to remove any
actual build-up that's not able to be removed with the wire brush. We're going to be using
two things. We're start using paint thinner, and then if we need something stronger, we'll
use some of this paint remover.

I just tried using paint thinner with a rag. That didn't
seem to be enough, so I stepped it up to the steel wool. That also doesn't seem to be enough,
so now I'm going to try using this paint remover, which is a much stronger solvent. If there
seem to be areas that the paint remover and the paint thinner both will not remove due
to deeper staining, then you might need to take..Get a little more aggressive and use
something like a cabinet scraper to scrape back areas.

And then, reveal a little more
fresh wood. For demonstration purposes, I'm going to go ahead and stop here, but when
you're working on yours at home, just keep doing the same process all over the entire
chair until you get results that seem to appear to be like this..

Woodworking InformationHow to Bend Wood to Make Furniture

Next I will be demonstrating how to bend wood.
This particular type of bend is called a bent lamination where you use multiple layers bent
around a form with glue in between, clamp down, when the glue dries, it retains its
shape. The first step is making your bending form. This particular bending form is made
out of three layers of three quarter inch MDF. First you cut your outside radius or
any shape that you want to bend to, then you cut an inside radius small enough to where
your clamps that you'll be using can reach over your form and over your piece that you
will be bending, clamping it down firmly.

The first step after building your bending
form is to now rip your strips. When ripping strips, you need to be aware that your strips
can be pulled down into your table saw through your throat plate. Replace your throat plate
with a zero clearance throat plate. Now it's time to rip the strips.

The first step of
ripping strips is to set the gage on the rip fence to the closest one eighth of an inch
mark that cuts the least amount of material off your wood as possible. Once again, the
first step is to set the rip fence gage to the closest one eighth of an inch increment
that cuts the least amount off your wood. Now we'll make that pass shaving off the edge
of the board. We will be creating one eighth of an inch strips.

The way you do this is
moving the rip fence gage one quarter of an inch each time. What that allows for, it allows
for the one eighth of an inch thickness of the saw blade plus gives you the one eighth
of an inch strip being sawed off the outside, which is the most safest and efficient way.
This process gives you nice, bendable, one eighth of an inch strips that if you follow
the method, it will give you each one will be very consistent. Repeat this method until
you have as many strips as you need. The next part of this process is the glue up.

You need
to make sure that you have all your things right around you because you only have a limited
amount of time to do a glue up like this because of how many glue seams you have. I've got
a roller for applying glue to the strips, all my clamps, and my bending form right here
where I need them. Now you need to take your roller, applying glue in the tray, roll glue
onto your strips. All you have to do is roll it onto the first one, have your stack in
front of you, roll a light amount of glue onto each strip flipping them onto each other
and continue this process until you've covered each strip with glue and have them evenly
stacked.

Next after the glue up is clamping all of your strips to your form. Whenever
possible, it's best to use a pad. In this case you're using small scraps of MDF to act
as a buffer between the clamp and your first strip. The reason for doing this is the amount
of pressure that the clamps can create can make marks or dent your wood, and then sometimes
if there's any glue on the surfaces, it can react with the steel leaving dark marks on
your wood.

First is find the center of the strips, place it on your form and get your
first clamp in place. Once you've done this, lay down, lay the form down along with the
clamp and your strips down flat. Repeat this process until you've reached both ends of
your strips. Bent laminations need to dry for approximately eight hours.

Once enough
time has passed, you want to un-clamp your form. If everything went right, you should
get a nice, consistent curve, the shape of your form..

Weekly Hebrew Words with Yaara - Furniture

Want to speak real Hebrew from your first lesson? Sign up for your free lifetime account at HebrewPod101.Com. Hi, everyone! My name is Yaara and this is Hebrew Weekly Words. Im really glad you joined us because the theme this week I think is really useful and its Furniture. So lets start!
(Shulkhan) table    .
(Kulam yoshvim misaviv la'shulkhan.) Everybody is sitting around the table.


(Kise) chair      .
(Ha'kise haze kaved yoter mishehu nir-eh.) This chair is heavier than it seems.  
(Madaf sfarim) "bookshelf    .
(Yesh meakhorai madaf sfarim.) There's a bookshelf behind me. See.
(Mita) "bed    .
(Ha'mita sheli raka meod.) My bed is really soft.


(Sapa) sofa Thats an easy one because its a bit similar, isnt it?
(Sapa) sofa        ?
(Ata yakhol la-azor li liskhov et ha'sapa hazot?) Can you help me carry this sofa? Thank you! Thats very nice of you. This is the end. Thank you so much for watching and well see you next week on Hebrew Weekly Words. Oh and dont forget to check out the site.

Bye!.

This Guy Is Making Furniture and Buildings out of Your TrashNat Geo Live

- [Arthur] I hate plastic. That's why we've engulfed
on a 15 year mission to turn that into something
that we actually want. We have collected
around 750 new materials that's coming from our
daily post-consumer waste. It can go into any
consumer product at lower cost,
higher performance.

First of all, let
me show of hand who actually recycled
something today? Wow. Okay, this is a weird audience. But guess what, guess what? There's actually, in
the United States, we have the lowest
recycling rate of all the developed nations. It's plateauing at
34% recycling rate.

You look at the waste
here, it has tires, apparel waste, on top of
plastic bags and PET bottles. I think this is one
of a big problem here, no one actually wants
to be responsible for all that waste
that we're creating. We are responsible,
all of us here, are responsible for this mess. Our solution is, we
have to make trash sexy.

And this what National
Geographic is so good about. For us engineers, that
is engineering porn. Okay, so, why is that? Because this is the highest
performance animal in the ocean. It's the fastest,
it has the scale that's optimized for
speed, and it's just the pure physical
form is no waste.

Zero waste. Everything is considered,
everything is designed. But this is what we get,
every grain of rice, every wheat, every bread
that you eat has 20% waste. Fiber waste.

Every PET bottle, all
of these are perfectly nontoxic material that can
constantly be recycled, reused. And then we have
a growing e-waste. Electronic waste. Huge amount of it, it
has precious metals, it has a lot of toxic elements.

Let me get nerdy a
little bit here, okay? Why we are not turning
that into product, today, if you touch your
clothes there's no
recycled content in it. There's the seat
you're sitting on, the environment that we're in, has no recycled content in it. This is a problem. Why? Why not? The reason is because
the polymer chain got broken in the
recycling process.

Then how do you make
then strong again? If you're a weak animal, a
weak animal cannot be sexy. Maybe they are but, you
know they're not very sexy. So we are actually
drawn to pretty things. So how do you make
that sexy again? We have to use fiber
to bridge in-between.

And this is a, we
go back to history, the Romans built
cement aqueducts, Chinese built walls, all with agricultural
waste grinded down into these powder forms
they mix into the cement. What it does is, it has
silicon dioxide in it, amorphous silicon dioxide. It's a natural glue. It's actually forming
these broken polymer chains if you mix into it, it actually
starts to come together, conglomerates, into much
much stronger materials.

The ancient does it, why
aren't we doing that today? So that's one of
the solutions how we reinforce material
using organic waste. So why aren't we doing this? Toxicity. This is a piece of leather, and that's a piece of recycled
PET fabric on the side. Just look at how many steps
that's required to produce and process a piece
of leather fabric versus a piece of
recycled PET waste.

Every step requires a carbon
footprint, energy, chemicals. On the recycled PET
side, you only use water, heat, and knife to
cut the pieces down. Why aren't we doing this more? We invent seven new
materials a month, we have collected
around 750 new materials that's coming from our
daily post-consumer waste. But the problem is no one
wants to buy them, okay? So we have to pioneer
making up new applications.

So I'll show you very
quickly what we did. This is what we call
molecular cooking. Molecular cooking at all levels. Molecular gastronomy
at the marketing front, new pioneering, engineering, and designing, and
marketing fronts.

It can go into any
consumer product at lower cost,
higher performance. We have built 40
story tower with trash, campuses, nine story
tall building, museum, we just finished the biggest
e-waste recycling plant where we turn the
waste of a waste into all the
building's structure. We've worked on a food waste
recycling plant in Taiwan, and we are also
doing a car waste recycling plant that's
finishing this year. This looks like a
piece of marble.

It's not. It's right here. It's a piece
of recycled PET non-woven, no chemical added, heat
pressed, structural material, and it's also an air purifier. Okay, made from cigarette
waste, which is tobacco, which I smoked for many years.

Okay, it can be formed, shaped, into a lot of different formats, we turned it into this
in Milan this year. This is a pavilion,
it's actually inspired by the natural lung molecule. And that's actually
capturing formaldehyde in the air and it's
integrated with electronics. It's all interlocked,
single material, no glue, and I want you to focus
on the waste of the waste of that cigarette butt
production process, which are those chairs.

We actually turned that
into this furniture product using the
cigarette butts. So the product's called
"Anything Butt," okay? And this process allows
other designers globally to do even more different
types of furniture products. Please, this has to
look sexy to you now, because this is the leftover of a typical German
beer festival. Look at all that material
that's out there.

This is a possibility here. And we turn that, all
that crap, e-waste, food waste, recycled Nike
shoes, into recycled Nike store. In New York, you can go see, in Paris, Le Marais,
you can go see, in Milan, in London,
you can see all these stores that are
made from apparel waste and e-waste, and
any type of waste. We scale across 23 countries, taking portable
manufacturing machinery into developed world, because we want
to keep the trash in the developed world,
not to ship to India, China, Taiwan, anywhere else.

Thank you..

Soft Clear Wax Recipe for Chalk Paint & Furniture- 2 Ingredients $3 TO MAKE!

Hii I'm Wendi with Nashville Restoration
and today we're going to make some clear wax to use with chalk paint.  You need 1/4
of cup of white beeswax pellets and you need a cup of either baby oil or mineral
oil.  You also need a mason jar with a lid. So just to put your
beeswax and baby oil in your mason jar.

It's got to be a mason jar because other
jars you cannot put in boiling water so make sure it's a mason jar.  Put it on the
stove and fill the water so it's just a half inch below the level of the wax or
else your jar will float up put the top. Put your stove on a medium high heat and stand by. You are going to stir it every couple minutes.

Just to get it mixed up and it
is done when the wax pellets disappear and it looks like this. It is  pretty much
clear when it's done. You can let it cool in the pan but if
you want to do it more quickly which I. Usually do, just carefully remove it from
the pan.

It is hot oil and it's very dangerous so do it with a great deal of
caution and use some pot holders. Now you are ready to cool it. Put some ice water in a pan and once again add water just below the level of the oil. You're just going to stir this every few minutes until it starts to turn
cloudy like a cloudy white.

When it looks like this, after about ten minutes of stirring every couple of minutes, take it out of the ice water and put the
lid on and shake it up. You're gonna come back and shake it up for thirty seconds every five minutes or so until it has reached room temperature.
Once it's room temperature it will stay like this it will look like this and
that is your clear wax. This looks pretty much exactly like the clear wax that I
have purchased from some name-brand companies and I can't tell the
difference when I use it. It brushes right on just like the other
waxes do that are commercially prepared.

I came up with this recipe doing
some research trying to figure out what was in clear wax and these were the two
most common ingredients so I skipped any additives and just went with these two ingredients and the shaking it up is really important. That's what keeps it blended.
If you don't shake it up it's gonna you kind of separate. I wanted to show you what it looks like on furniture. So this is just a basic white table.

I'm
gonna brush it on just like any other clear wax. I don't use a wax brush I use
this type of brush. It is  a $6 brush and I can't tell the difference in the
brushes.  I mean after you brush it on  and you're still going to come back and
wipe it down and then if you're distressing you're gonna sand so to me
if you like the brush you're using and the wax goes on then that's the brush
you should use.

So as you do with any wax, you wipe the wax down after you put it
on there. If you're distressing this is when you would distress when the wax is
still fresh on there. It's a lot easier to distress then waiting for the wax to
actually dry and set up. So I did some of this distressing off-camera because I'm going to break out the electric sander because hand sanding the top is pretty
intense.

So this is what it looks like afterwards. This is my clear wax results. I'm
completely happy with it. I've been painting for many years both houses and
furniture and I think this works great.

So thank you for watching. Please check
back for more videos don't forget to subscribe and if you have a video you
would like to see, send me a message. I also put up videos all the time so
please check back for new stuff. Thank you!  .

Silver Metallic Furniture Painting DIY Princess Chair Makeover!

DIY Silver Paint Victorian Chair Makeover For this project you will need some
oil-based silver paint. I am using "Liquid Leaf" and it is available at craft and
hobby stores and you can also order it online. I'm using oil-based paint so that
I don't have to strip and sand before I. Paint the chair.

I'm using a one-inch
artist brush and you can either be ready to throw your brush away or get some
mineral spirits to clean your brush with when you're done. Make sure you shake up your paint really well before you start. I'm taping the edges of the fabric with
painters tape because you will not get the paint cleaned off the fabric if you
get it on there so tape it as close up to the edges as you can. I cover the
rest of the chair with fabric kind of as I go to keep drips from getting onto the
fabric.

This paint goes on very easily and it also dries very fast. I paint in
the direction of the grain only because that gives it a more natural look. I also
use for this entire chair only two of the small containers  of paint that I showed in the beginning of the video When you get close to the edges where the fabric is,
just go really slow and try to not even get any paint on the tape and if you do
that, you're less likely to have the paint seep under the tape. Just get your paint on enough to cover
and be sure you don't leave any drips behind.

One of the hardest places to keep
paint off the fabric is down where the arms or the back of the chair meet the
fabric so be especially careful taping that off that you are all the way up to
the edge between the wood and the fabric. I usually add a couple extra rows
of tape because if I don't I will probably either drip paint on the fabric
or rub my brush against the fabric as I. Go. To paint the chair you want to keep a
minimal amount of paint on your brush when you do this.

You want to stay
away from the tape as much as possible. Just try to use a little bit of paint and
do a light coat and don't try to jam your brush down next to the tape because
it will probably seep through onto the fabric.   The reason I'm using the oil-based paint
is so that I don't have to sand this wood all the way down or prime it before
I put this paint on there. The only reason my wood looks like this
is because I tried a different metallic paint that I did not like so I had to
remove most of that chalky finish to put this finish on there.

The other reason I like
an oil-based paint for this chair is that when I go to distress it I can go
ahead and distress it and I do not have to put a coating over top of it like a
clear wax or polyurethane. Once it's distressed it's ready to go. You could
also just leave it silver if you didn't want to distress it. So this is a pretty
quick and easy way to do this chair.

I let my paint dry for eight hours before
I came back to distress it. The best sandpaper to use when distressing this
is going to be between 180 to a 220 grit. It will take the finish off fairly
easy so just go slow so you can see what you're doing and learn exactly what the
sandpaper is going to do. Because this is an oil-based paint it actually has
undertones in the silver so what happens is when you sand it is that it looks kind of like sterling silver.

It brings out some grays and some blacks which are  colors from which this paint was made. As much as I like chalk paint I
have found that the best metallic finish is in an oil-based paint and that is why
I am using that on this chair. I tried a metallic chalk paint before this and it
just did not have the kind of shine you can get from an oil-based paint. Now like
I said I am NOT going to put a top coat on this, If you wanted to you could put
an oil-based polyurethane on it but I.

Don't see a reason to because you've
already got a well protected shiny finish and you just don't have
do that.   I'm doing most of my sanding just on the
edges and then I kind of run the sandpaper down the middle of the grooves as I go, -it's pretty quick and painless to get this chair distressed with this
paint so probably about 10 to 15 minutes of sanding on this chair and it is done.
I always sand with the grain because it gives it a more natural look and then
like on the bottom of this leg, I go around the other way because that's just
how it would be naturally. So these are my results. This is my sterling silver distressed Victorian chair makeover.

I'm really happy with it I think it looks
great. I love the paint and I love the colors. So thank you for watching please
check back I put up new videos all the time and I have all types of DIY videos for furniture, dressers, upholstery and
some DIY home repair stuff. Thanks for watching! You.

Second-Hand FurnitureBudget Home Tour

Hello guys, my name is Tegan and today I
want to show you our secondhand furniture, which is basically all of our
furniture. There are several reasons why my husband like to further by secondhand
furniture rather than brand new. Number one you save money. Secondhand is always cheaper than brand new.
Number two, you can buy more unique pieces.

Not necessarily one-of-a-kind
antiques but furniture that says something about you rather than when you shop.
Number three you can afford higher quality, solid rather than ply-board
pieces. This third point is what we really try to focus more on nowadays. So,
quality over quantity in all aspects of life I guess.
And number four, you reduce
landfill by buying less into consumer culture.
Our shoe cabinet is actually a
wine cabinet.

I saw this idea on pinterest and I bloody loved it! I grew
up never wearing shoes inside the house so there must always be somewhere to
store shoes at the door. You can find wine cabinets much cheaper than this but
I took a long time to find something that would fit in this awkward space for
our front entrance and now that is one of my favorite pieces of furniture.
It's very solid and I think it's probably the highest quality piece we own. We brought it home hanging out the boot of a car! I thought i was going
to lose it on the freeway but you gotta do what you gotta do!
This plant stand was
$12 at a trash and treasure market. I had literally been looking for one like it
for years but athefew I'd come across were always more than $100.

When
I bought it and was carrying it around the market, one lady accosted me and
seemed to be very upset that I'd found at first. She was like, "where did you get
that?!" "What are you gonna do with it?!"
And I was like,
"I'm gonna put a plant in it?" I swear she nearly ripped it out of my
hands This entertainment unit was probably a
little more than i originally wanted to pay, but we really love the design. All we
had to do was drill a hole in the back for the DVD player and the appletv
chords. And it's got plenty of room for all our
DVDs, our cds and a few other bits and pieces as well.


We have pretty much decided that we are never ever going to buy a new couch or lounge suite again, so
long as we have our cat Selene. The only piece of furniture we've bought
brand-new was a Fantastic Furniture couch, it wasn't amazing quality but it
looked alright and it did the job. Then Selene arrived on the scene and she
thought it belonged to her. I tried everything to stop her scratching it;
wrapping it up in tin foil and sticky tape, buying her all the different kinds cat
scratchers but she basically destroyed it within 18 months.

We purchased this
leather suite for a great price and around the same time I invested in the
cheapest cardboard cat scratchers from Kmart which Selene loves! We don't expect it to stay in pristine condition forever because Selene does still like to sleep
on them but at only $250, we don't really mind so much
This rug, while not secondhand,
was ex-floor stock which is another great thing to look for
instead of buying brand new. Before I met Adi, I planned to keep a Jungle Python as a pet. I arranged for my wildlife keeper license and I bought
this converted kitchen cabinet from eBay as a terrarium. Then almost immediately
after that I met Adi and he flipped out when he saw the, what i thought was an
obviously fake snake, so it's been empty ever since.

I don't really want to get
rid of it. We use it for book storage and I keep my
records in here as well. We've thought about keeping frogs or stick-insects in
here but I'm not so keen. I'm not sure really how I feel about keeping a snake
in such a captive environment anymore either.

This is the second dining table we've
bought a couple. When we first moved in together we used my old IKEA desk as a dining table for months.
Then we bought
a small round 4 seater on ebay and once we moved into this house we sold
that one to someone who was going to refurbish it, because we want to tell me
bigger for this space honestly I think we paid a little too
much for it, especially since it's just from Fantastic Furniture but it has been
serving us very well. I searched for ebay for our master bed suite for
months and eventually won the bidding on this one for what I think was a great
price.

It's natural, solid oak and I love the paneling on the side of the drawers.
The model came with wooden handles for all the drawers but the previous owners
never installed them and we think it looks great without them too!
We were a bit disappointed with this purchase, it's a fantastic furniture brand again
and while I knew this when we bought it the photos did not indicate the poor
condition of the wood and I couldn't leave it there because I'd already
organized for my father to bring his ute up to the city to help us collect it. It has however been very useful when
family come to stay. And finally, not really a furniture item i guess but a
large household piece nonetheless Our aquarium which is way too expensive for us to buy brand new. This was another 'hanging out the boot on the freeway'
scenario which in hindsight was not the smartest idea.

But it survived and even
though we've only had varying success with the aqua garden and not very much
success with fish, I think it's a great addition to our
home. Not just with the peaceful vibe it creates but the cupboards below act as
bonus extra storage too. Thanks for watching guys, let me know if you enjoyed
this video and whether or not you buy secondhand furniture and, if so, what is
your favorite piece?
See you next time Bye!.

Packing Tips for Moving Furniture

When planning for furniture, don't forget to
think about the pictures and the mirrors and the other wall decorations. The
easiest way to pack them up is just to get a picture bag. It's basically a large
foam bag and you can just unfold it and slide it right over the pictures and
mirrors and it will protect them in the back of the truck. Another piece of
furniture that sometimes difficult to pack and protect is going to be things
like the sofa or loveseat.

So the best way to do it is to use a sofa table
protector. It works for upholstered sofas, but it'll also work for larger tables
like a dining room table, kitchen table or the dresser that would be in your
bedroom. The sofa table protector is a three layer product. There's a tough poly
on the outside, there's a standard plastic layer on the inside and in
between is a non-woven fabric layer.

What that does is that allows the inner and
outer surfaces to slip against each other without transferring any abrasion
onto the fabric or onto the leather. Moving blankets are another great tool
for packing furniture. They work very well with both upholstered and wooden
furniture so anything like sofas, chairs tables, nightstands, dressers really any
of the furniture around your house is going to be a great thing to protect
with. The premium moving blanket has a navy blue outside that's a woven layer.
It's tough, it's durable, it's gonna take abrasion when you pack it in the back of
the truck.

The inside is a black non-woven layer and that's a soft non-abrasive
surface. Make sure you put that side to the furniture and the navy blue side to
the outside. The easiest way to use moving blankets is just to simply drape
it over the chair or table or whatever furniture you're protecting and secure
it using 20-inch or five inch stretch film.    .

No More Matching Furniture Sets!

Hey everyone, Lesley Myrick here - with a
squeaky chair. What. Is. Happening? Hey everyone, Lesley Myrick here - I'm an
interior stylist and I transform boring beige spaces into kickass colorful homes with an
offbeat edge that are livable, delightful, and unexpected.

Today, we're going to talk about break ups. I'm not talking romantic break ups - I am
talking breaking up that matchy-matchy set of living room furniture with a sofa, and
loveseat, and chair that all matches and coordinates perfectly. These were super popular in the 80s and 90s
and even a little bit into the 2000s, and I'm sad to say that I still see them today,
and they are not a good idea. It's a total no-no to do too much matching
in your home.

Sure, you want things to make sense, have
something visual that ties them together and have a cohesive look - but, I think that's
better accomplished through mixing and matching the right pieces than just sticking with a
pre-made set that some retailer has decided goes together. So, if you have one of those living room sets,
you've invested good money in it, what do you do? Well, friend, it's time for a breakup. The pieces on their own are probably great. It's together when they're all matching, that's
when things get a little bit stale.

So why not repurpose some of those pieces
in other parts of your home? A loveseat or a settee can be a great fit
in a master bedroom, and I love the idea of using an accent chair in an office or on a
landing - somewhere where you want a little somewhere to perch, sit, maybe read a book,
but you don't need a full living room setup. Alternatively, if the pieces have good bones,
but it's just the fact that they're all upholstered in the same boring fabric that's kind of becoming
a snoozefest, you could look at re-upholstering one or more of the pieces. The fact that the frames tend to be similar
and the proportions are good together means that with some change of fabrics you could
totally transform the look without buying all new pieces of furniture. If you do decide to keep your matching set
together all in one room, there are a lot of little ways you can make each piece feel
unique, even though they are all the same.

Different pillows, throws, slipcovers. You can mix and match different soft textiles
and decorative accessories to really give each piece its own personality but still have
it work together as a whole. So, never fear if you are stuck in the 80s
with your matching sofa, chair, and loveseat set - there is hope for you. If you do like it all as a set, you can personalize
each piece and make it work in one space.

However, if you're kind of over the matching
look, break it up, spread it throughout your home, and give each piece new life. If you liked this video, be sure to share
it with a friend and spread the love. And if you want more inspiration to help transform
your home, hop on over to my website at lesleymyrick.Com where you can download my free guide, Bring
Personality to a Boring Space..

Lusso Romantic Avantgarde Furniture - IstanbulTurkey

Welcome to Lusso-Woiss furniture store! We offer various kind of high quality stylish home furniture in avantgarde, ulta-modern  and romantic-avantgarde styles. Romantic avant-garde  furniture is characterized with plenty of decoration elements and romantic patterns everywhere  on the sofas and armchairs, on the beds and bedside tables, on the wardrobes and dressers, on tables, chairs and sideboards. Our showroom is located in Istanbul, in furniture city Masko. This is our main national showroom and store, which daily visits a huge number of foreign customers who came to Turkey specifically to purchase furniture or be inspired.

In addition, our company has stores and showrooms located in Europe Russia, Azerbaijan. We also look forward to expand and develop our company globally. We pride ourselves on offering individual approach and turn-key basis project maintenance and installation. We pay great attention to the use of mirrors and mirror surfaces in the manufacture of furniture and in the decoration of the walls.

It is a known fact that mirrors visually expand space. In addition, the mirrors reflect the light in a special  way, giving the room a special chic and atmosphere. Ultra avantgarde living room furniture comes with the ability to create a warm and cozy atmosphere that will make your guest feel really welcomed and comfortable in your home. Light colors, canopy beds, brilliant mirrors and glam chandeliers it is all about romantic and sophisticated Lusso-Woiss ultra avantgarde bedrooms.

Another key element in these romantic bedrooms is mirrored wardrobes and dressers that add a little sparkle to the room. Because each furniture group in the concept has its own unique combination, we complete our projects with especially designed exclusive chandeliers and lighting (ceiling and wall), that the design will be perfect. Lusso-Woiss focuses on decorative lighting by using backlights and LED light sources. Striving for excellence in quality and unique design is the secret for success of the brand brand Lusso-Woiss in national and international markets.

Each collection is made in-house according to craft processes designed to emphasize care for details and finishes. The main strength of the brand Lusso-Woiss lies in consistency and and a perfect balance between luxury and rigor, fashion and comfort. The doors of our store are open for you every day! We are looking forward to meeting you in our store!.

I Want To Be A SofaMy Weird Addiction

My name is Olympia, um I'm 17 I'm just a
regular suburban chick and I am addicted to pretending to be furniture. I think
it's it's something I've just loved doing all my life and it stems from you
know one sort of Christmas my aunt Rosemary sat on me accidentally -
she didn't mean to - and I was frightened and horrified at first but you know the
more that I've sort of recalled and remembered it I wish she'd do it again. I have to do it it's a compulsion. I'll be
doing you know the washing up - some sort of regular you know day-to-day activity
and I'll remember that I just love being furniture and I have to just - have to do it.

My name is Nova. I am Olympia's... Let's
say life partner. Olympia is addicted to taking on the roles of various pieces of
furniture.

Well we live in a very small apartment I just don't understand how
she thinks I don't know. She - I don't think she - she has no idea I am very aware of this... I don't want to say sickness? Hobby? Perhaps? Um, when you're standing with a lampshade on your head that's not inconspicuous. I can't explain
it I don't expect anyone to understand it I just fucking love it.

You know an
armchair, a chaise lounge you know I'm there. It's getting to the point now
where it's really affecting - affecting me and I'm... You know... I don't know how I'm
going to tell my family and my friend.

I've got this wonderful partner Nova
and she has no idea that I do it. You're not incognito I can see that you're
standing there with a lampshade on your head. I'm yet to bring this to her
attention though I'm, I'm - I'm worried about what it would be like for our relationship if
I brought this up with her so as - as of right now she doesn't know that I'm - I'm
aware of this. Um, so, I mean, I've brought you here today...

I just, um, I have something to tell you Nova. It's... It's kind of a big deal I suppose
it's kind of hard for me to say this um (What?) I am addicted to being furniture. (Oh for fuck's sake) Um, it's something you know I've had to battle with for a very long time
and I know that you never suspected you've got no idea - Oh I know about the
furniture thing that you do.

No you don't know you have no idea. (You do this, this thing...) Basically what I do is... (Where you pretend to be furniture) I pretend to be furniture - no  you don't know you don't - let me just finish please. Do you honestly think I don't know?! I'm sorry I can't.

I'm sorry.
I'm just addicted to being furniture. I feel it, I am it. I am that armchair. We
already have so much furniture what else could she possibly turn in to? Sometimes I feel like she wants me just to sit on her..

How to Use Hemp Oil to Seal Your FurnitureCountry Chic Paint Hemp Oil

Hi everyone it's Rosanne here from Country Chic Paint. In this video I would like to tell you about our fabulous Hemp Oil It is a 100% natural finishing product so it's a great choice if you're looking for an environmentally conscious, easy-to-use furniture finish Stay tuned for more details As I mentioned, our hemp oil furniture finish is a one hundred percent natural product with no chemical additives. It is completely environmentally friendly and safe to use. Our hemp oil is sustainably sourced from Canadian farmers Hemp oil is a drying oil This means that it polymerizes and hardens into a protective coating for your furniture.

You can use it on raw wood, furniture pieces painted with Country Chic Paint,  on leather, or even on wooden floors. I'll pour some of the hemp oil on this plate and as you can see it has a deep green tone. Depending on the harvest you'll see a variety of colors Sometimes it won't be quite as dark. Once applied to your piece it will deepen the color slightly but it doesn't dry green so don't be alarmed about the dark color you can apply the hemp oil simply by brushing it on with a paintbrush or wiping it on with a lint-free cloth.

My favorite method is using a painting sponge. Before you start you want to make sure that your project is clean and dust free. For a painted piece you'll want to make sure that the paint has dried for at least a couple of hours. I have two pieces on board here painted in the color Cobblestone and I'll simply apply the hemp oil with this painting sponge to one of them so you can see the difference in color As you can see you don't need a lot of the hemp oil and it does darken the color as you can see clearly it has darkened the color but it will lighten up as it dries after applying the first coat allow the oil to penetrate for 12 hours.

You can then take a lint-free rag and remove any of the excess oil simply by buffing it If you want to add a bit of sheen to your finish you can continue to buff it with the cloth for a little bit extra sheen. I. Will also show you how the hemp oil looks on raw wood. You can use hemp oil on old antique pieces to revive the wood for those pieces that are simply too precious to paint.

I brought this bell jar with me and as you can see the wooden base looks quite dry so I'm going to apply some hemp oil to bring the wood back to life. Since hemp oil is food safe you can use it on wooden items that come into contact with food As you can see it deepens the color and brings out the details of the wood much more. Again you want to leave this for about 12 hours and then you can remove the excess oil with the rag but i'll just show you what the final look lookss like Depending on the type of project that you are applying the hemp oil to you can apply multiple coats for a surface that gets touched a lot such as a coffee table top I would recommend at least doing two or three coats. For a piece that's mostly decorative such as a dresser you could do a single coat.

More coats are better when using it on raw wood as it will penetrate deeply into the wood Hemp Oil creates a wonderful, water-resistant coating however is still recommended to clean up any spills right away. The hemp oil will slowly wear off over time so you can reapply it every few years as needed Keep in mind that because it's a completely natural product it can take up to four weeks to completely cure and harden. You can certainly use your piece right away but remember to be a bit more gentle with tabletops especially as the finish does not completely harden instantly so if you're looking for an easy and completely natural and safe finishing product, give hemp oil a try! I'm sure you'll fall in love with this wonderful product just like I have. I hope you enjoyed this video make sure to leave a comment if you have any questions or click the like button.

I also want to encourage you to subscribe to our YouTube channel so you don't miss any of our upcoming tutorials. To find out more about our products and where you can find them please visit our website countrychicpaint.Com Thank you so much for watching and happy painting!.

How to Stop Your Cats From Scratching Furniture

All right. Fine, Jackson, fine. You told me all about
declawing and how terrible it. Is And fine, fine, I
won't declaw my cat.

My cat is still
wrecking my house. My cat is scratching
up my furniture. My cat is scratching me. I don't want my cat to scratch.

Now what do I do? Well, calm down Sleepless
in Scratchville. It's time to get catified. If you watched episode
about declawing, you know exactly where
I fall on the matter. I mean, I made myself
pretty clear, right? Don't do it.

Don't do it. It's inhumane, it's cruel,
it's unusual, it's unnecessary. And it rarely works in
solving behavioral problems. It usually makes
other ones crop up.

And did I tell you it hurts? You said, find. And you said it in
loud, loud ways. I mean, thank you
by the way, people. The way you're coming out,
team Cat Mojo in force, right? How do you live with
a cat and her claws? Well, I'm going to tell you it.

There's a few things we
have to bear in mind. Scratching is a
necessity for cats. It's not a luxury. Cats need to, first
of all, exercise the top part of their body.

It's a nice way to grab
something and pull down and get that exercise. Also, it's a really important
part of marking territory. Now remember, Cat Mojo 101. Cats need to own places.

If they don't own places, they
become very, very insecure and anxious, and they
act out in other ways. If it is a necessary, if cats
do need to scratch, well then, what are we going
to do about that? The first thing that we
do is trim their nails. You take either a nail trimmer
or a human nail clipper, or the ones that they
sell in the stores that are more like systems,
whatever suits your fancy. You press the cat's pad.

And boink, out comes the nail. All you've got to do
is take off the tip. You don't have to
take off that part where the red meets the white. You don't have to worry
about hurting them that way.

You don't worry
about what we call quicking them, which is
hitting that blood supply and making everyone unhappy. Just bump, and it's done. It's also the approach, folks. Just act as if you're just
walking up and you're say hi.

And things will get
much, much easier. Also, catch them napping. I mean, when your cat's
sleeping or just waking up, you're having a lazy
moment together. You can have clippers
by the side of your bed.

All you're doing is getting
the nail out and clipping. If every time you
touch your cat's paws, they're going to get clipped? Then they're not going
to let you do it. So associate it with positive
things, a nice quiet time. And then maybe you
only get one nail while you're sitting there.

That's fine. Because over the course
of a couple days, you'll get them all. The next thing that we want
to start thinking about is where they're scratching. Remember, it's
territorially important.

There's two human scent
soakers-- your couch and your bed. Where do you spend the
most part of your time when you get home from work? Your couch and your bed. And that's where
your scent is strong. It's a scent soaker.

And because of that,
your cat is going to want to compliment
your scent with theirs. In the show, you've seen this,
I'm sure, a million times. I get redundant. The yes and the no.

Behind every no,
there has to be a yes. If we don't want them scratching
on the arm of the chair, we have to say, well, this
location is still important. Let's say you use a
product like Sticky Paws. Sticky Paws is
double-sided sticky tape that is actually designed not
to actually stick to your couch.

But when your cat touches
it, it's kind of tacky and they don't like it. OK, we'll say no, and put sticky
paws down the arm of the couch. But right next door, there
has to be a scratching post. There has to be a scratching
post that works for them so that they can compliment
your scent with them, and leave a visual and scent
marker in a territorially crucial area.

What makes a good
scratching post? All right, let's
talk about that. The first thing is
a nice wide base, because if your cat goes to
scratch down and the thing wobbles, well then,
the couch wins. Does your cat prefer corrugated
cardboard or sisal rope or carpeting or natural wood? What is it your cat likes? There are a lot
of nice scratches out on the market there. But you've got to sometimes look
in different places, you know? You don't want to just go
for the first one you see, and then get mad
when it doesn't work.

In a situation where
you have young children, or if you're immune
compromised, things like that-- which in the past
were kind of given reasons to declaw a cat-- you can think
of something like Soft Paws. And Soft Paws is a brand
name, but there are other ones out there. They're basically
just vinyl nail tips. They go on.

They don't hurt,
nothing like that. And the only downside is
that after a month or so, they're just going to pop
off as the nail grows. And then you trim the
nails and do it again. It is a way that there's
no way that the nails can do any damage.

I like that to be
sort of a last resort. Because why do it? Why go through all
the aggravation if you don't have to? Plus. I like accommodating
the raw cat. We want cats to be confident
in the areas that they scratch.

We want them to assert
themselves territorially. We just want them to
do it in the place that we want them to do
it, and not in the place we don't want them to do it. Don't forget, you can start
this when they're young. I mean seriously, if you are
clipping your cat's claws and giving them the yes and the
no, and they're a young kid, you will not have a
problem as they grow up.

And there's a lot
of people out there who are like, why would
I compromise for my cat? You know, you've got children. You've got spouses and partners. And let me tell you
something, the compromise involved with those guys
dwarfs the needs of your cat. So listen, if you've got
to go out there and get a scratching post, you've
got to put some sticky tape on your couch, you've got
to go put Soft Paws on, you've got to clip
your cat's nails.

That's the cost of having
a beautiful relationship with your cat. It is an invaluable
relationship, and beautiful in
every single way. Now you know everything
that you need to know-- the basics,
anyway-- on making sure that your furniture and
the people in your house stay safe while keeping
your cat's claws intact. Now, in the meantime folks, you
can find me anywhere, right? Anywhere and everywhere.

Find me Twitter, Facebook,
InstaGram, Google+. There's no excuse. I am all over the place. Be sure to join me on
Wednesday, February 5.

I'll answer your questions. And we're going to talk
more about declawing. So stay tuned for
more information. But man, get that on your
calendar and do it now.

Hey, I've got to say
it one more time. Folks, thank you so
much for the support that you're showing that last
video that I put out there. It's getting circulated
far and wide. You are telling your friends.

We are finally going to
get that message out. What's the message? Declawing your cat is not OK. Anyhow folks, until
we talk next time. All light, all love,
all mojo to you.

Muah. [MUSIC PLAYING].

How To Restore Wooden Furniture - D.I.Y. At Bunnings

I'm going to show you how to restore wooden
furniture. These are the tools and equipment to do the
job. I've got my sander and a variety of sanding
pads to get a nice fine finish, my turps to clean it all up when I finish sanding it,
I've got my paint, some brushes, drop sheets to protect the surfaces, and of course my
safety gear. I love old furniture.

I'm gonna restore grandma's old table. There's a lotta memories on this table from
when I was a child, but it's definitely had better days. The first step is to give it a good clean
with a damp cloth. The reason we give it a good clean is to make
sure we've got all the dirt and grit, so it doesn't affect the sanding and scratch the
surface later on.

Now we're ready to sand. I'm going to start first with a coarse-grade
sandpaper to remove all the old varnish, the coffee, the wine stains for many years of
use. Don't forget your safety equipment and always
use a drop sheet to protect the floors and surfaces. For this project, I'm only going to restore
the top.

I'm going to leave the legs and underneath
exactly as they are. Give it a good dust off in-between sanding
to see how you're going. As you can see, it's starting to look good
now, but it's still a little patchy so I wanna do some more sanding, still. It's important to check the sandpaper regularly
as the grit will wear down with use.

What I'm aiming for is to go back to the raw
timber, like this [Inaudible 00:01:34] here. So we'll keep going with the coarse sandpaper
until we get to there. Okay, I'm really happy with how that's starting
to look now. But I'm gonna use a nice high grde sandpaper
to give a nice smooth finish before painting.

This is a 240 grit, which will give a really
nice fine, smooth finish. The higher the grit, the smoother the finish. So I'm really happy with the way it looks
now. I'm going to dry brush it off and then using
a little bit of mineral turps, I'll wipe up to get any fine residue that might still be
left.

Once the mineral turpentine has dried, we're
ready to stain or varnish it. I've chosen to give this one a clear varnish. Give the varnish a good stir first. This varnish [Inaudible 00:02:35] are milky,
but dries clear and will really bring out the grain in the timber.

I'm lucky there's good ventilation in this
room, but if you're in a closed in area, wear a mask. Always read the instructions on the back of
your tin for drying time. Once this coat of varnish has dried, I'm going
to give it a light hand sand. This ensures I'll have a nice, smooth, glossy
finish at the end.

And then I'm gonna give it's final coat of
varnish. Make sure you always give the can a very good
stir in-between coats at each time you use it, especially for the final coat. I'm gonna follow the grain of the timber with
nice long streaks to make sure it's brushed up to a nice finish at the end. I'm really happy with how grandma's table
turned out.

Doesn't it look great? And that's how you restore wooden furniture..

How To Restore Outdoor Timber Furniture - DIY At Bunnings

Hi I'm Adam and today I'm going to show you
with a little bit of TLC how you can bring your timber outdoor furniture back to life.
All you need is a brush, some wood cleaning solution, some old rags, light sand paper
and a block, outdoor furniture oil, a drop sheet, a good quality paint brush and remember
your safety gear. I'm going to show you how to restore this timber bench but the process
works the same for all timber furniture. First give your bench a good brush down to get rid
of any dirt and cobwebs. And now it's time to give it a good sand.

I'm using a fine grit
sandpaper and wrapping it around this sanding block which makes the job easier. Next we
need to prep the timber with a wood cleaning solution. Take an old rag, dip it into the
solution and rub that over the timber like this, then give it a good scrub. Once you're
done give it a good rinse off with a pressure washer or a hose.

Now that it's dry we're
ready to oil our furniture. Apply the first coat. Work in the direction of the grain in
small sections at a time. When you're done give it a wipe down with a clean cloth, then
leave it to dry for 12 hours before you give it a second coat.

You can already see what
a difference its made. A little bit of TLC. Like this will keep it looking great for years.
Bunnings Warehouse.

How to Restore Old Wood FurnitureTips & Techniques for Sanding Wood Furniture

Okay, let's get this project started. Notice
how I got my hair pulled back, safety goggles are on and I've got the mask ready to go.
I also have the project on a level surface and the smaller pieces have been properly
secured so they don't move around while I. Am sanding. Here are some tips for sanding.
Be sure to secure your item properly before sanding.

Always make sure to start the power
sander before placing it on the wood. Use both hands to control the sander while using
minimal pressure. Don't lean in to or onto the sander as this can produce uneven spots
in the wood. Do any grinding work at a slight angle with just the top third of the disc
in contact with the work piece.

For the orbital sander, make sure you are traveling in the
direction of the wood grain. Have a towel or vacuum nearby to clean off the sawdust
as you are working. This ensures that the surface you are working on is clean and will
be sanded evenly. And don't forget to change the sandpaper as it will get worn down while
you are sanding.

Here is a couple more safety tips as well. When you turn off the sander,
always make sure it has stopped completely before setting it down. Never touch the sandpaper
while it is moving on the sander because you will end up sanding yourself..

How to Repair Wood Veneer FurnitureHow to Glue Wood Veneer Furniture Patch

Okay now we're ready to put in the patch that
we've cut. As I mentioned before while I was making this patch it broke in half. But that
is going to be okay because the two pieces should fit together and you won't notice it
at all. Usually I would use wood glue to do this but in this case I am going to use super
glue because it is a lot faster.

Woa that's an awful lot. I am going to use super glue
and use this business card to spread it around. I am using a type of super glue that is very
very slow to dry and it's thicker than your usual super glue. I've got quite a bit on
there and I'm going to take some of it off.

Okay I got some of that out of the way. You
will want to have a rag handy because it looks like some of this super glue is going to squeeze
out over the top and you will want to wipe it off pretty carefully. Here is the first
piece. That one goes right up here and let me get my glasses so I can see this a little
closer.

Push this portion of the patch into place. I have left it hanging out just a little
bit at the end and we will trim that when we are done. Then I am going to take the second
part of the patch and just push it up around that one. Be careful not to get super glue
on your fingers if you can and if you do get some super glue on your fingers you can take
it off with nail polish.

I'm just going to press the patch down as well as I can right
in there. Get this piece and push that in as close as I can. Now I'm going to use this
material right here which is called zip kicker and it hardens super glue instantly so just
a couple of squirts and that glue is going to set up. Get in as close as you can and
push the patch down.

Sometimes they will try to curl up and as you can see this one is
trying to curl up a little bit. Push it down and give it a squirt. I am going to do that
on the front part too.
Okay so now we have our patch installed. As I said before ordinarily this would be done
in a restoration shop because the idea is to make that line, that cut out line as invisible
as possible.

This will do for now and we are going to wipe it down and push it down and
push it down. That's pretty good. It will take a little sanding and a little bit of
finish but as you can see if you get right down on it you can see that line. From further
away a casual observer won't see that patch at all..

How to repair Wood Furniture At Home by Pottery Barn

Furniture Repairs Made Easy This is our entryway bench and antique ride and today what I want to do I want to show how to how to repair some of these damages. We need  a rough patch, a soft patch and the plastic card, the hard one and a wax stick and a touch up pen and and pretty much all these items available locally at your grocery store or
hardware store. Before we start and go ahead and work on that we look at the surface the first thing is to check on
the color tone, of the pen to see it's matching to the surface that we will repair, and it's a very very good match, here we have a lot of holes and it looks quite damaged and what you do is you take your wax stick and you rub in some wax and see how easy it is to fill it? Now we can see I've filled all these
holes of the damage and to test it now the plastic card drive or whatever you have, I just put the sharp edge here, that on the surface and we remove
the excess wax. Take your pad and you rub in the grain direction, and you clean up all the excess wax on the surface, it looks really amazing, there are just a few spots
where substrates of the wood is looking through, and what we do, we take our white touch up pen, dab a little bit, on the surface and just take your time look at how nice that looks, you let it dry for about two or three hours and then you can use it.

We want to repair our Montego pedestal table in our Mahogany finish. We want  to repair that really deep damage what we have here, we have the
mahogany color tone here burnishing here the dark area here, so the way we start out is
first Color tone all the very deep scratch with the Mahogany tone, you do that very very light, and rub away the excess material so you've blend it in right away. What we do first is we rub very hard with a lot of pressure, and just fill it, and then you remove the excess material, look at how clean that looks here. And then on the edge you just take your pad, and recreate the way you use the table edge,
and now you can see the difference from the Mahogany, expecially on the edge.

We will start off first with a black edge, and we feather in the color tone, and now we're using our  mahogany color tone marker, we do very very small dabs, and
it blends in  to the surrounding surface. Okay now we are done, with great results repairing
the furniture, It looks amazing the final result. Pottery Barn.

How to Repair Furniture ScratchesPolishing in Wood Scratch Repair

Aright, this is it, the final thing, part
of the process, this will clean the surface area a little bit and it will also even out
the sheen, make it look a little better. You can use pretty much any product, any kind
of furniture polish spray, a little bit of 4.0 Steel wool, you definitely want to make
sure is 4.0 Because that's the best there is and it's least likely to scratch the surface.
Again, once we get it on there, we're going to rub with the grain, all across the area,
with moderate pressure. This is just restoring the original finish,
the sheen, the color and depth, it will all come back. After you rub that, a little bit,
you want to get another fine and clean area rag and buff it again.

The divot area is almost completely gone.
The reason is, because the color wasn't broken. Anytime you can get away with breaking the
color, you are way ahead of the game. Whenever you dig down and you get into the color base,
and you have to start over, you can see there's a lot more, in bringing that color back and
bringing the sheen and the texture and all the things surrounding it. So, if you can
catch it, in this stage, it's much easier and much better for the dent also for the
repair.

However, as you just seen, both problems can be fixed and fairly easily and it's an
in home deal, where we can come in and fix this in the home, where we wouldn't have to
bring a whole huge sideboard in maybe, or something more heavy, that you wouldn't want
to move around just for one ding or bang. These products can go a long way, in fixing
things like this and that's what they are here for really, is to go on sight and fix
things and take care of small damages. Whether it be shipping damage or living with it around
the house or animal damage, would be a dog or cat scratches, we can take care of all
those kinds of things too, if they are minor. If they are really severe, we'd have to go
to the extreme and refinish but this is a nice little repair job for small dings and
bangs that you find around the house..

How to Refinish and Strip Wood Furniture in 7 Steps

Hey in this video, I'm going to teach you
how to refinish a wood table, or really any sort of wood surface. My wife and I picked
up a coffee table for 25 bucks at a garage sale. And it was completely painted in white.
But we could tell that it was going to be a beautiful piece of art and functional coffee
table once we refinished it. Step number 1 is to get the right tools and equipment.

So
some of the tools you'll need for refinishing include paint stripper, if it has paint on
it, sand paper, wood filler if you want to fill any holes, a big tarp, and assortment
of brushes for restaining or repainting, a power sander if you need to really get in
there and sand it, some dirty rags that you'll be able to get messy, some polyurethane or
other type of sealant to protect your wood in the end, and then an assortment of tools
to basically scrape off all of the white paint from this piece of furniture in the beginning.
Step number two is to set up your work area. You want to make sure that the ground is covered
because using the paint stripper is going to get a little bit messy and make sure that
it is well ventilated. Step 3 is stripping the paint. So using a paint stripper like
Klean Strip, we used the Klean Strip Strip X which I talked to the guys and Home Depot
about.

They said it works perfectly. You just apply it to the paint like you would painting
on the table. You let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Then you use your paint-scraper tool to basically
scrape it off.

And if it is working, the paint should come off relatively easy. You'll also
have to use all sorts of other tools like toothpicks, screwdrivers, sand paper to get
all the paint off, especially with this table there's lots of nooks and crannies that make
it super beautiful, but it also makes it harder to get all of that white paint off. And so
that was the most time-consuming part of this whole process, was taking off the paint. Step
4 is to sand down your table or whatever you're refinishing.

Start with something like a 60
or 120 grit sandpaper that is a little bit rougher, but then move up to something above
200 so that it gets super soft. Step number 5 painting or staining. Now we actually decided
to not stain or paint this table. After we took off the paint, we were saying wow this
is really beautiful wood.

It's pine. It has lots of cool marks on it that we didn't want
to mess up. And we liked the color. And it went well with the rest of our furniture,
so if you want to this would be the step where you'd paint it or try staining it.

Step number
6 is to seal it and protect your table from water and from other scratches. And we used
polyurethane. It's basically a liquid plastic that people use all of the time to cover all
sorts of things, tables, chairs, desks. A.

Lot of furniture has polyurethane on it. And
it just protects it. And so this just went on sort of like paint. You just paint it on.
And we did a few coats.

Between each coat, you had to wait a couple hours. And the last
step was step number 7 where we basically let it sit for 7 full days. And this was the
hardest step. It was just waiting.

We couldn't wait to bring up our coffee table and start
using it, but now we have this beautiful work of art. So for about $25 for the table and
about $40 worth of equipment, but hours and hours of fun labor, it was well worth it.
So that is how you refinish a wood table. If you have any questions, please leave it
below. And please subscribe to the channel and we'll see you in another video..

How to Prepare for Furniture Delivery

If you don't have time or live too far
away for our Fit Call service, this video will walk you through how to measure
your space and what to consider before delivery. Start by thinking about the
clearest path from the street to your home.
Consider access through not only your front door, but also garage or patio
doors that may offer more clearance. For multi-unit buildings, find out if you
have access to a service entrance in addition to the main entrance. Measure
the width of the door opening from left to right and the height from top to
bottom.

If your entrance has a second doorway, measure this opening as well.
Take into account any overhangs, light fixtures or door handles and include
them in your measurements if they cannot be removed. If we'll need to use an
elevator for your delivery, please measure the size of the elevator door
opening and the interior height, width and depth. Also record the diagonal
measurement from the bottom center of the door opening to the back ceiling. Be
aware of handrails and overhead lights in the elevator and include them in your
measurements.

Consider removing these common obstacles
before delivery or include them in your measurements if they cannot be removed. Measure your interior doorways and
hallways just as you would your front door. Consider clearance around any
unique architectural features as well. Measure the width of your stairway,
taking into account any fixed handrails or trim.

Then measure your ceiling height
in three locations; from the bottom step to the ceiling, from any landings to the
ceiling and from the top step to your ceiling. Also measure the width and depth
of any landings. If the top or bottom of your stairway leads into a wall instead
of an open space, measure the distance from the stairs to the wall. Finally,
think about the room where your new furniture will be placed, considering how
much access you need to permanent fixtures.

We're here to answer any
questions you may have about delivery including if your new furniture will fit
into your home. If you need some guidance, please feel free to send us your
measurements, pictures of your space and the items you wish to order. Together we
will determine if your new furniture will fit, so you can relax and look
forward to delivery..

How to Paint Gold Dipped FurnitureAdding Gold Accents to Furniture with Country Chic Paint

Hi there it's Rosanne here from Country
Chic Paint. Today I'm going to show you how to do a really fun technique that
will make your furniture look like it's been dipped in gold. Stay tuned to see
how this works I've painted this chair with a couple coats of Vintage Cupcake
and today I'd like to show you how you can create a look as if the legs have
been dipped in gold. I'll be using our Pocket Watch metallic cream for this
which is a beautiful gold color.

The other supplies I'm going to be using are
our Fresh Mustard paint, a painting sponge, some painter's tape, a pencil,
measuring tape, as well as a paintbrush and some stir sticks. Before you start this
technique you want to make sure that your original paint coat has had at
least 12 hours to dry before you start Using my measuring tape I'm going to
measure about 4 inches from the end of the legs up and I'm going to mark it
with a pencil. You don't have to do four inches necessarily you can do 6, 8, 10
inches,whatever you prefer but you want to make sure that it's even on all four
of your legs Now I'm going to use this yellow frog
tape to wrap it around each leg to mark where I need to paint. You want to make
sure you use this specific type of tape when your paint coat is still relatively
fresh because this is the only thing that will stick to it.

You want to make sure you don't cover up the pencil marks so that you can paint
over your pencil marks with paint later Because I want to make sure my gold is
fully opaque I'm going to start by applying one coat of Fresh Mustard paint
to my legs. You can skip the step if you like but it just means that you'll use
more of the metallic cream to get opaque coverage. This just saves you some time. So as you can see I've turned my chair upside down because it's a lot easier to work with.

I'm going to use a painting sponge as it's easier to go around the spindles. You
just want to be careful that you're not dripping over your painted piece So now that the legs are yellow I'm
going to let this dry for about thirty to sixty minutes. It's been about an hour
and the Fresh Mustard coat is now completely dry. I'm going to apply a coat
of Pocket Watch metallic cream with my Country Chic Paint brush I'm going to let this dry now again for
a couple of hours before applying a final coat of the Pocket Watch metallic
cream to give it fully opaque coverage After you're done with your second coat
of metallic cream you can peel off the tape and then you'll be done with your
gold dipped chair.

Thank you so much for watching and I hope you enjoyed this video. If you'd like to learn more about our products go to our website countrychicpaint.Com. Also subscribe to our YouTube channel if you don't want to miss out on
any of our upcoming videos. Thank you so much for watching and happy painting!.

How To Paint Furniture Like A Pro - Paint Application - Part 2 Furniture Painting Course

 Hey there and welcome back to this
second video today I'm going to show you how to paint
the tables that we prepped in our first video Before you open your paint can, you want to shake it really well. Turn it upside down and shake it for about a minute. Then after opening it stir it well so that
all contents are mix well together I'm going to pour out some paint into this
plastic cup. You want to avoid painting straight out
of the can as you may contaminate the entire can of paint if you do that.

I also wanted to show you
how to hold a brush properly. You don't want to hold it near the end, you wanna hold it right by
the base almost like a pencil grip, your thumb is on the back and your other fingers are on the front and
by holding it like that that gives you a lot of control. The color that I'm go to be using as a
base coat for this table is Dark Roast. This is a beautiful dark
grayish brown that this almost black.

As you can see I'm
covering about half way up the bristles. You want to make
sure that you have a nice paint amount on your brush. But you also don't want to overdo it. If
your brush is overloaded you'll start getting drips
and those aren't very pretty.

I want you to keep in mind that the
climate you are working in has a huge influence on your final finish. You don't want to work in a temperature
that is too hot as it will make the dry too quickly. You also want to avoid heating in high humidity as that will mean your paint may not dry
at all! It is best to work at room temperature and definitely not in direct sunlight.
Make sure the humidity isn't higher than eighty percent the temperature is around
68 degrees or 20 degrees Celsius. For our next table I'm going to use
to color Delightful, which I would describe as and nice robin's egg blue.

We're going to open it up and stir it, and then I'm going to pour some  in a plastic cup. I grabbed myself a brush and and what I'm going to do first is paint the top first and when you're painting you always want to make sure your going in one direction on your piece. If
you're going cross-wise, it means
you'll get a lot texture in your finish, and maybe that is what you want. But if you want it smooth, it is better to use long strokes.

What I'm doing here, you can't really see probably, but there are ridges in here, and I just need to push to
paint into. While you're painting, you want to
make sure that you don't continue to go over the parts that have already started
to dry. Our paint dries very quickly, and you'll
end up getting brushstrokes if you do so. By keeping a wet edge you'll make sure
to get the smoothest finish.

Oftentimes you'll find that you can cover a project with a single coat and
it does depend a lot on the surface that you're painting and this table that I painted in Delightful I can still see some of the wood coming
through and I want this to cover really nicely
so what I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and give this piece a second coat. If you are working in
warm weather and you absolutely have to paint your project that
day, then you can add some extra water to your paint which will increase the open time
meaning it will dry it less quickly. Our paint has almost no odor and it is
safe to use indoors, although I would suggest a little
ventilation just in case. Okay well that was  it for this second video! Thanks so much
again for watching! I hope you're going to come back to our
third video and in that video I'm going to show you how to
layer a different color over top of this base color and then I'm going to also
cover different distressing techniques so I hope to see you then!.

How to Layer Stain for a COOL Look!!Furniture Finishing Techniques, Distress, Antique

It's getting thick Its growing in thick Its looking sweet, aint it I cant think of nothing to say, NOTHING. Shootz brah Im acting like CeLo with my animal during an interview Hey buddy So whats up guys, I just wanted to give you a quick little tutorial on layering stain. Kind of like i did on the top of that wave desk, on the outside, where I had a couple different colors, sanded it just a little bit, and then layered it. It gave it a kind of cool look.
So I just wanted to give a tutorial because to go along with that desk the person wanted a little storage area to go up under the desk for the supplies and stuff like that.

So i just whipped up this little storage
unit Its just a box with a shelf and its got some wood slats in the back and its got some little castor wheels on the bottom so it can out from under the desk. It was a simple little project so I'm not going to waste your time showing you how to build this thing. I'm just going to show you how I finished it. So, to get started I went ahead and did the inside a solid color because I'm not worried about layering it on the inside.

There will be baskets in there so I'm not worried about that. As far as supplies, you don't really need that many, at the minimum you need two different colors of stain. I have that dark Kona and that sun-bleached that I will put on top. I have the Polycrylic to seal everything up.

You'll also need just a #220 girt sandpaper just to lightly sand it and then just a staining rag so you can rub in the stain. That's it as far as the supplies go. To get started I'm going to go ahead and put tat first layer on which is going to be the Kona, the dark brown. I'm just going to put in on, let it dry and then go from there.

I usually use a rag but you can use a sponge brush or you could just use a regular brush. The reason I like a rag is because I tend to have more control over the
the stain when I apply it. So, that's why I like using a rag. What I end up doing is I just cut down a t-shirt into a small square.

What I don't want is to have a big huge rag where I'm worrying about controlling the excess or anything like that. So I take a little rag and I what I do is wrap two fingers around, get it wet with stain, and then I can really control it just using the two fingers. So that's the method I tend to use. All right, so I just finished that first coat of Kona stain and even though I plan on putting a second coat just on the outside part i want to go ahead and lightly sand it
because even though I'm going to be covering it with more stain, this kind of starts the process of it having that cool layered look.

Where it has some darker spots and lighter spots. What will happen is I'll go ahead and lightly sand this. I'll actually sand away some of this first coat to where a lot of the bare wood underneath is exposed. So when I put that second coat on the places where it still has some of this dark stain, it will get darker, and then it will stain some of the places I sanded it will be a little lighter.

What it will do is start giving it that texture look. So, I'm going to lightly sand it real quick and then put another coat of this Kona stain on the outside. All right, I just finished up that second coat of Kona stain and I went ahead and lightly sanded it again. As you can see, what I was doing was just putting more pressure in certain areas than others and it was getting it down to the bare wood and it gave it a streaky look which is exactly what I was going for.

Now I'm done with that step and now I'm going to do the final color, sun-bleached, which is like a light grey color. On this color what I plan on doing is I'll just apply the stain and then as soon as I put it on just immediately just wipe it off. I don't want to much of it to stay on there but I do want a little bit of that color. So I just finished up the grey and as a last step i went ahead and went over all of it with a #220 grit, lightly, just blending the grey and what I ended up with is this streaky wood grain look.

I think it looks awesome! So I'm finished with everything on the outside and the only thing I left to do is to put a coat of protection on. I'm going to use Polycrylic on the outside, gloss. I really think gloss makes this effect really pop and look cool with the shine. So I'll put a gloss on the outside and just a satin on the inside.

I didn't really do anything to the inside so I want to keep the look subdued. So that's the last thing I need to do and then I'll be done. *Music* So, there you have it, that's layering stain and as you saw it's super easy even he could do it This dudes huge isnt he, I bet he weighs like thirty pounds. He's so fat He doesn't like being called fat what you mad now? Why you fat I called you fat? All right buddy see you later.

Why you so mad dude why you so mad goofy cat I guess I'll see you guys later. Later dude, later Later tater..

How to Get Rid Of Bed Bugs on Couches and Furniture

Hello this is Jose with Bedbugsupply.Com.
Today I am going to show you how to properly inspect and treat couches and other furniture
for bed bugs. These are proven, professional-strength treatment methods, and are all part of our
4-step do-it-yourself solution found on our website. Lets have a closer look. Every crevice and seam on your
sofa is a potential home for bed bugs to hide in When a host is on the couch, they emit
body heat and carbon dioxide that will draw bed bugs out of their hiding places in search
of their next meal.

You can inspect for bed bugs in your couch
using a Flashlight , a pair of nitrile gloves, a magnifying glass, and a Credit Card for
hard to reach areas What were looking for are signs of bed
bug activity. Black Spots are signs of bed bug waste. These look like thin black streaks,
and can be seen on sheets and upholstered furniture. Molted skins are signs of bed bugs
progressing through the five growth stages between hatching and reaching sexual maturity.
Finding these will let you know that bed bugs have been successfully feeding and maturing over time.

Dried up blood stains can be possible signs of recent feedings and are commonly
found on the fabrics of your bed or sofa. Bed Bug eggs are milky white and about half
the size of a grain of rice. These can usually be found in hidden cracks and crevices where
they won't be disturbed.  Bed Bugs themselves are oval and flat, unless theyve recently fed.

When they first hatch, theyre very small and hard to see; as they mature, they
grow dark and red, and will get to be about the size of an apple seed. You can begin your inspection by removing the layers
of cushioning from your couch, inspecting every item you remove. Since bed bugs are
good at squeezing into small spaces, its important that you leave no areas unchecked
or untreated. Trace every seam, edge, and zipper from end to end using your credit card
and flashlight.

There are tons of cracks and crevices under
the bottom of your couch; to reach those potential hiding places, you should remove the dust
cover, which is mainly there for aesthetics anyway. If you found any signs of bed bugs, youll
want to start treating your couch right away. Begin treating your couch by using a vacuum
to pickup as many bed bugs, bed bug feces, and eggs as possible along the cracks and
crevices of your sofa. Vacuuming for bed bugs is a great way to quickly
reduce the bed bug population before steaming and applying your residual chemicals.

While you could use your own vacuum, its
recommended to use a HEPA filtered PCO vacuum that features plugs and a shake-free bag to
prevent bed bugs from escaping the vacuums body. After youve finished vacuuming your sofa,
you can move on to the next step in the treatment process which is steaming the cracks and crevices
of your couch. Steaming is the most effective and environmentally friendly way of killing
bed bugs and their eggs on contact. All steamers that we carry are capable of producing steam
temperatures over 180 degrees fahrenheit, enough to kill bed bugs and their eggs on
contact.

To take full advantage of pin-point
nozzles, take a microfibre cloth and wrap it around the head of the accessory using
rubber bands to secure it. Using the cloth breaks up the pressure coming out of the steamer
and builds up the temperature at the tip of the accessory. You can steam your sofa by following all cracks
and crevices using your steamers pin-point nozzle attachment. You want to treat around
the armrest, below the cushions, and along every seam, to ensure you treat as many potential
hiding places as possible.

If your steamer features a steam adjustment dial, turn the
pressure down for flat surfaces and up to penetrate into cracks and folds. When finished, give your couch a few hours
to fully dry before applying your residual chemicals. You can also use a fan in the treated
area to circulate the air and speed up the drying process. After you steam clean your sofa, its important to treat your couch with an effective residual.

JT
Eaton Kills Bed Bugs Plus is a non-staining residual insecticide offering up to 12 weeks
of protection against the toughest of bed bugs and their eggs. Before using JT Eatons Plus, we recommend wearing a long sleeve shirt, and using a pair of chemical resistant gloves to prevent skin contact with the chemicals found inside. And remember, you should always refer to the products label, and msds, for safe and effective usage. Begin by attaching the
included straw applicator and spraying every seam, flap, crack, or crevice found on your
sofa.

Be sure to apply JT Eaton Plus to the zippers and seams of the cushions as well
to ensure no area is left untreated. After you treat your sofa with a residual,
you can prevent bed bugs from reaching you on your couch by using ClimbUp Insect Interceptors.
The Interceptors work by using you as a lure to bring out bed bugs from their hiding spaces
and towards the Interceptor. Bed bugs climb up the edge of the interceptor and fall into
a pitfall trap, which features a thin coat of talcum powder to prevent bed bugs from
climbing back out. To install ClimbUp Insect Interceptors on your couch, simply lift up
the leg post and place an interceptor underneath.

With the ClimbUps in place you can stop bed
bugs from being able to reach you, while also monitoring their population over time.  To increase the chances
of attracting bed bugs to your installed monitors, you can convert them to active monitors with the inclusion of SenSci Activ lures. SenSci Active is a new, easy-to-use bed bug lure that
slowly releases an odor that can attract bed bugs for around 2-3 months. If you followed and completed these steps,
you can rest assured your couch is now bed bug-free.

You can find our full selection
of vacuums, steamers, traps, sprays, and more here at Bedbugsupply.Com. If you have
any questions about our 4-step protocol or any of the products we carry, you can reach
us via live chat or call us toll-free at 866-238-9868. Again this is Jose with BedBugSupply.Com..

How to Dry Brush FurnitureFurniture Painting Techniques

Hi there, it's Rosanne here from Country Chic Paint. Today
I want to  introduce you to a fun painting technique called dry brushing, so stay tuned! So in this tutorial we'll be using some paper towel, a plate, a chip brush and two Country Chic Paint colors Dry brushing is a technique you can use to give your
piece a worn or a beachy kind of look So I'll show you how to do the dry brushing technique on this little table that we painted in the color Cobblestone.
I'm going to use two different colors Sunday Tea as well as Pebble Beach to dry brush
on top of this. What I like to do is pour a bit of paint on a paper plate and use
that to dab my brush in. If there's too much on your brush you can dab some of
it off on the plate or on a piece of paper towel.

One very important thing to
remember is that you need very little paint on your brush. It's called dry
brushing for a reason. As you can see the bristles are not soaked in paint. The
brush is almost dry, that is exactly what we want.

To dry brush this table I'm
going to use gentle, quick strokes going back and forth. Having a light hand is
key You want to have your brush only just
touch the surface of your piece Sometimes you'll accidentally put too
much paint on your brush and end up with a bit of a glob on your piece you can just
take a wet cloth and blended it in or remove it I really love this technique, it gives such a
gorgeous, worn look to your piece you know you can keep playing around with it
until you're happy with what it looks like In the next video I will show you how
to finish that table top of this piece with our Tough Coat so that it can stand up
to a lot of usage. If you enjoyed this video please leave us a comment or a like
below and on our website you'll find out more about our products. Our website is
countrychicpaint.Com.

Thank you so much for watching, and happy painting!.

How To Create a Metallic Finish on FurnitureMetallic Furniture Faux FinishCountry Chic Paint

Hi there, it's Rosanne here from Country Chic Paint. You may have seen some fantastic project done with our metallic creams but
did you know that they can be used for more than just accents? If you're ready to
go bold with your next project, why not add some sparkle to the whole piece? In
this video I'm going to give this headboard a glamorous new look so stay tuned to see how it turns out! A few days ago I prepped this headboard and painted it with one coat of Rocky
Mountain in our All-in-One Decor Paint My next step will be to put some of our Trigger metallic cream on this paper plate. I'll be using this sponge to apply
the metallic cream which will create the smoothest finish. Having it on this plate
makes it easier getting the product on the sponge.

The metallic cream dries
rather quickly so on flat surfaces you want to apply it in long, even strokes for
the smoothest look. Around the spindles of the headboard I'll be pushing the sponge into the grooves to make sure I'm getting the metallic cream everywhere.
I'm going to let this coat dry for about an hour or two before going on to the next
step. Now that the Trigger metallic cream is completely dry I am going to be
using this large, short-handle paint brush to apply Silver Bullet metallic cream on
this piece Again, I'll put some of the metallic cream on a plate, then I'll apply it to my piece without
worrying about covering every single inch Next I'm going to take this lint-free rag to
wipe away the Silver Bullet metallic cream so that I'm just leaving a wash behind I'm simply trying to give the Trigger
metallic cream finish more depth by adding a second color This is just one of many techniques you can use with the metallic creams. I'd love to encourage you to play around with our
four different metallics and combine them together in layers to create unique
finishes.

They are very versatile products and will definitely give your
piece that one of a kind look. To find out more about our products and where you can buy them
click the website link on your screen now or in the description below this video. If you
liked this video please leave us a comment and click the Like button. If you'd like
to see all four of our metallic cream colors in action, click the link in description
below to watch our metallic cream tutorial.

Thank you so much for watching
and happy painting!.